The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Collection Sector Dials (Celebrating 25 years of Precision)

25 years ago, the highly-respectable manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre innovated not with a new complication or a new material, but by implementing the “1000 Hours Control” procedure, an in-house certification comprising a series of radical tests to ensure that the watches are reliable and precise. As a tribute to this anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created an entire new collection of Master Control models, with stunning sector dials. Today on Monochrome, we take a look at these 3 watches: the Master Chronograph, the Master Geographic and the Master Control Date (and just wait till you see the prices…)

The look of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Collection

A watch is a movement, a pedigree, a name but mainly, it is a design (who wants to wear a badly designed watch anyway…) This is where Jaeger-LeCoultre wins big with the new Master Control Collection. Put simply, these 3 watches just look stunningly cool. Period! That’s the easy part. Now, let’s see why they are so appealing. With this new collection, JLC has achieved something rather difficult: creating a design that resonates with the current vintage trend, without falling into the trap of copying past models.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date Sector Dial

The Master Control Collection incorporates the beauty of vintage design with various modern touches, in a very balanced way. The “object of the crime” here (which we will see remains a reasonable crime for your wallet) is the sector dial. This type of dial was extremely popular among Swiss manufactures during the 1930s and 1940s, particularly for watches designed for military and scientific use. A sector dial refers to the presence of different “sectors” and is usually characterized by a two-tone color scheme (commonly silver and white, with matte and brushed finishes), as well as radiating markers for the hours. Many brands used such dials and some have appeared recently at auction, achieving insane prices – so-to-say, sector dials are hot these days.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic Sector Dial

In the case of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Collection, we find exactly this type of sector style: matte / opaline white central area, circular brushed silvered hour ring, matte / opaline white area on the periphery of the dial. This two-tone scheme is linked to the necessary radiating markers for the hours and Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 (depending on the watches, some are not printed for legibility reasons). However, this highly vintage style is mixed with modern touches, starting with bright blue accents, on the tracks and hands. Also, the hands are in a classical syringe style, but they are skeletonized for a lighter look. Furthermore, all the hands are blued steel, matching the accents of the dial.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Sector Dial

In terms of case and materials, Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen simplicity and elegance. The cases are made in stainless steel, with polished bezels and flat surfaces, while the casebands are brushed, for more contrast and an enhanced casual look. On the 3 watches, thickness and diameters are perfectly controlled, so the Master Control Collection remains balanced and doesn’t lose the vintage appeal of its dials. To complement the look, all 3 come on a dark blue alligator strap, with steel pin buckle – and it will certainly look good on any kind of vintage-like leather strap…

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date Sector Dial

First in the new Master Control Collection is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date Sector Dial, probably the most appealing of the 3 versions, besides being the simplest: 3 hands, a date window – some will find it irrelevant, we think it has its utility and it doesn’t ruin the design. Not basic, but essential. This version is reasonably small (39mm), thin (8.5mm) and balanced. In addition, the simplicity of the display allows for the enjoyment of the sector-dial. On the wrist… extremely comfortable, light, discreet but with enough presence.

Inside the steel case and behind a sapphire crystal is the calibre 899/1, the new generation of automatic movements introduced recently by JLC. Only 3.3mm thick, it allows the watch to be well proportioned. With 219 parts in total, a 4Hz frequency and a 38h power reserve, it offers the necessary and more, as certified by the “1000 Hours Control”. The finishing, with a solid rose gold rotor and nice decoration throughout is very pleasant. Price-wise, this Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date Sector Dial is offered for EUR 5,900, which makes it the entry-level offer for the Master collection – the standard Master Control Date in steel is priced at EUR 6,400, even if featuring a folding clasp. Overall, JLC comes with a more appealing offer, both visually and price-wise. Hard to resist.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Sector Dial

The second watch of the new Master Control collection, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Sector Dial, will definitely please some collectors in love with historical pieces. Indeed, if sector dials are trendy, the combination with a chronograph function becomes even more desirable. You guessed it, the new Master Chronograph is great. In terms of style, the integration of the chrono into this two-tone dial is a success, mainly because JLC has decided to go for a more classical and more vintage-oriented two-register display (instead of the usual 3-counter chronograph in the Master collection). However, surprisingly, the watch doesn’t feature a small-second sub-dial anymore but a 30-minute counter and a 12-hour counter. No drama, a 3-register display would have been disappointing.

The integration of the tachymeter scale is perfectly placed in the matte / opaline periphery of the dial. The two counters are large and suitably spaced, proof that in-house can be beneficial. Indeed, inside the 40mm case is the calibre 751G, an automatic, integrated chronograph movement with column-wheel and comfortable power reserve of 65 hours (2 barrels, 4Hz frequency, 235 parts, with “1000 Hours Control” certification). The movement, even if well decorated, will remain hidden behind a closed back. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Sector Dial is priced at EUR 8,300, to be compared to the EUR 9,000 required for the standard, non-sector dial and 3-register version.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic Sector Dial

The last watch in this collection might be a bit surprising at first, however it is based on an icon, the Master Geographic. This watch provides travellers with a novel way of reading the second time zone. The aperture in the lower section of the dial displays the names of 24 world cities, representing all the time zones. A crown set at 10 o’clock on the case makes adjusting the indicator of this second time zone simplicity itself. A sort of simplified and practical world-time watch. While this type of display is nothing historical, the combination with the sector style of the dial remains pleasant. It’s clean and not overloaded with indications.

Indeed, in the same vein as the chronograph, JLC decided to keep things simple here and to focus only on the essentials, removing the hand-indicated date and power reserve indicator, which are normally placed on the upper half of the dial. The base movement remains the same as other Geographic models, the in-house calibre 939B/1 (automatic, solid gold rotor, nice decoration, 4Hz frequency, 43 hours power reserve), with “1000 Hours Control” certification.

As with the rest of the collection, this new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Sector Dial is offered for a more reasonable price – EUR 9,800 (while the previous steel Geographic is priced at EUR 10,800).

More details about this new collection on www.jaeger-lecoultre.com (with online boutique).