Nomos Gold watches – The Nomos Lux and the Nomos Lambda

18/07/2014 | By Max E. Reddick | 2 min read |

Nomos is an intelligent choice. Nomos is a name that garners respect from watch Geeks to watch collectors, and they have worked hard for their reputation. This smaller sibling of the Glashütte Über houses has come of age, evolving beyond steel-only watches, and as proof of pedigree, introduced the limited edition, The Nomos gold Lux and Lambda models. We loved Nomos’ Zürich Weltzeit world timer and last year’s Ahoi dive-inspired watch (Evan writes a helpful history of the company in the Ahoi article), so we were keen to see these watches. They surpassed our expectations with laudable in-house movements and a new take on Bauhaus minimalism.

When the Swatch group announced its ETA ébauche moratorium, the watch industry began scrambling to find or produce movements. Nomos’ manufacture independence, now complete with hairsprings, seems prescient in comparison to much of the industry – many other companies are trying to catch up. The manually wound DUW 2002 (Lux) and DUW 1001 (Lambda), “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte” or DUW, are manufactured and assembled at the Nomos facility.

Making a fine Glashütte-worthy movement caliber takes time and includes regional traditional elements: rhodium-plated three-quarter (plus!) plate, swan neck regulator, and hand-engraved balance cock. Twin barrels give these movements 84 hours of power reserve, which the Lambda records on a sizable power reserve indicator, and each movement is adjusted in six positions. Once a week, only one or two watches reach completion, but like a harmonious wine, the result is worth the wait. As the engraved balance cock reads, “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (lovingly produced in Glashütte).

The 18kt white gold Lux model has a new Tonneau shape with a choice of galvanized, silver-plated white dial (also Lambda) or an additional printed, light blue dial. The clarity of the blue dial arrests attention, further enhancing the novelty of the Lux. From the wire lugs, to the round bezel, to the buckle clasp on the Horween Shell Cordovan black strap, the white gold gives the 40.5mm by 36mm watch (with only 8.9mm height) an understated boldness. The three rhodium plated hands under sapphire glass disguise with simplicity what the sapphire transparent caseback reveals in opulence, the DUW 2002. The Lux is a smart accoutrement.

If you want something round in either rose or white gold, then the 42mm Lambda would be the right selection, only the rose gold sold out immediately. Obviously, we are not the only ones who think these watches are smart. The white gold Lambda won the Red Dot Design Award for exceptional design, and the rose gold Lambda won second in the Golderne Unruh vote, behind A. Lange & Söhne. Word is getting out.