Hands-On – Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde

Maurice Lacroix unveiled a new version of its Masterpiece Double Retrograde at Baselworld this year – and the watch has never looked so good. Here is a hands-on look at this tastefully executed facelift with a new clous de Paris dial that is definitely more modern and chic – and still with this great display, complex and legible at the same time.

Introduced in the early 1990s, the Masterpiece family is Maurice Lacroix’s top of the range collection, offering interesting complications with accessible pricing. The Double Retrograde was launched in 2003 and the latest revamping of this model was unveiled at Baselworld 2017.

At 43mm in diameter, the classical round steel case wears well and provides optimum space for displaying all indications. The alternate satined/polished finish and the knurled onion crown add distinction. The dial lay-out is clean and balanced despite the numerous indications and the clous de Paris embossing and the applied indicators give an interesting sense of depth and volume. The indications are printed in black for all four ‘sub-dials’. The chapter ring features blued Roman numerals for the hours and the brand logo at twelve o’clock, with the color matching the blued hands.

The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde is powered by the caliber ML191 manufactured in-house in the brand’s workshop in Saignelegier. This large (16’’’ ½) automatic movement displays the hours and minutes via central hands and small seconds at 9 o’clock. The power reserve is indicated at 3 o’clock. A retrograde 24-hour display keeps track of a second time-zone at 12 o’clock, while a retrograde date display is shown at 6 o’clock.

The ML191 caliber runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz) and has a power reserve of 52 hours. Visible through the exhibition caseback, it is rhodium coated with Geneva stripes drawn with a distinctive spiral pattern on the bridges and openwork rotor. The barrel and crown wheel are decorated with snailing.

The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde is worn on a black crocodile strap with black calf lining and fitted with a steel folding buckle. It is also available with a black dial decorated with Geneva stripes. Priced at CHF 4,500, it seems to be good value for money for a watch with this type of complication, which reflects the brand’s accessible luxury strategy. For more information, visit www.mauricelacroix.com.

Technical specifications Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde

• Case: 43mm diameter – stainless steel – sapphire crystal with antireflective coating – see-through case back – water resistant to 50m.
• Movement: ML191 with automatic winding – 52h power reserve – 18,000 vibrations/h – 67 jewels – hours, minutes, small seconds, retrograde date (6 o’clock), retrograde 2^nd time zone (12 o’clock), power reserve indication (3 o’clock).
• Strap: crocodile leather strap with folding clasp.
• Price: CHF 4,500